{"id":71790,"date":"2026-01-10T21:36:37","date_gmt":"2026-01-10T18:36:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/?p=71790"},"modified":"2026-02-21T21:17:53","modified_gmt":"2026-02-21T18:17:53","slug":"pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/","title":{"rendered":"Pruning Shears Buying Guide: How to Choose the Right Tool for the Branch\u2019s \u201cLanguage\u201d?"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_83 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-custom ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">H\u0131zl\u0131 Git<\/p>\n<label for=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6a12695c1df1b\" class=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #ffffff;color:#ffffff\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #ffffff;color:#ffffff\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/label><input type=\"checkbox\"  id=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6a12695c1df1b\" checked aria-label=\"Toggle\" \/><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Types_of_pruning_shears\" >Types of pruning shears<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Bypass_pruners_cut_like_scissors\" >Bypass pruners (cut like scissors)<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Anvil_pruners_press_the_blade_onto_an_anvil\" >Anvil pruners (press the blade onto an anvil)<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#How_to_read_cutting_diameter\" >How to read cutting diameter<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Handle_ergonomics_and_hand_health\" >Handle ergonomics and hand health<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Blade_steel_and_coating_differences\" >Blade steel and coating differences<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#When_does_a_pruning_saw_take_over\" >When does a pruning saw take over?<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Sharpening_and_maintenance\" >Sharpening and maintenance<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-9\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Cleaning\" >Cleaning<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-10\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Lubrication\" >Lubrication<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-11\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#Safe_pruning_gloves_goggles_ladder\" >Safe pruning: gloves, goggles, ladder<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-12\" href=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-how-to-choose-the-right-tool-for-the-branchs-language\/#3_scenarios_a_small_set_idea_for_roses_hedges_and_fruit_trees\" >3 scenarios: a small set idea for roses, hedges, and fruit trees<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pruning is not simply \u201ccutting\u201d; while shaping a plant, you are also managing a wound. The wrong pruner crushes the branch; the right one tends to speed up recovery. In a way, your pruner works like a translator between you and the plant: you say \u201cshorten,\u201d and it tries to tell the fibers as gently as possible\u2026 or, on the contrary, it delivers a rough sentence and bruises the branch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I wrote this guide not to answer a single-choice question like \u201cwhich pruner is best?\u201d, but to get closer to \u201cwhich one is right for my plant and my hand?\u201d Because a rose shoot and an old apple branch don\u2019t speak the same language; and the repetitive trimming of a hedge doesn\u2019t progress peacefully with the same tool as a one-time shaping prune.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Types_of_pruning_shears\"><\/span>Types of pruning shears<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"867\" src=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-0e7452.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-71385\" title=\"\"><figcaption><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Bypass_pruners_cut_like_scissors\"><\/span>Bypass pruners (cut like scissors)<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bypass pruners work with the classic \u201cscissor\u201d logic, where two blades slide past each other. Because the branch fibers are crushed less during the cut, they tend to leave a cleaner wound surface, especially on live and relatively fresh shoots. In practice, this usually means: when pruning roses or shortening young fruiting shoots, you see a smoother line on the cross-section instead of a torn edge. From a plant physiology perspective, a cleaner cut can make callus tissue formation (the tissue that closes the wound) easier; at least in many cases, the healing process looks more orderly and controlled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bypass pruners have a small \u201chabit\u201d: when forced on very hard, dry, old wood, the blades can slip or fail to grip the branch properly. At that point, the required hand force increases, the wrist gets tired; and sometimes, while thinking \u201cjust a bit more pressure,\u201d you unintentionally invite crushing back into the picture. So bypass is not always a romantic solution; it is excellent in the right place.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"350\" height=\"319\" src=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/i202211171141472910349.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-71387\" title=\"\"><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Anvil_pruners_press_the_blade_onto_an_anvil\"><\/span>Anvil pruners (press the blade onto an anvil)<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In an anvil design, a sharp blade cuts by pressing the branch against a flat surface (the \u201canvil\u201d). This often gives a \u201cstronger cutting\u201d feeling on dry and hard branches, because the wood is supported against a surface, letting the blade advance more easily. But that convenience can bring crushing on some materials: fibers may compress and tear, and on juicy, live shoots the cut face can look more bruised or mashed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Anvil pruners can be very useful in some gardens, especially for deadwood clean-up, lower shrub work, and quick \u201ctap-tap\u201d clearing. But for delicate pruning (roses, young shoots, grafting wood and similar), bypass is often the safer choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In short, bypass is strong on the \u201cclean wound\u201d side; anvil is practical on the \u201clet me cut hard wood\u201d side. Yet both can find a place in a garden; the key is not to mix them up and to know where you are using which tool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"How_to_read_cutting_diameter\"><\/span>How to read cutting diameter<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When buying pruners, you\u2019ll see a \u201cmaximum cutting diameter\u201d on the box (for example 20 mm, 25 mm). That number is often an upper limit given under ideal conditions: correct angle, wood that is not overly old, and a clean cut technique. So if it says 25 mm, assuming \u201cit will crunch through any 25 mm branch\u201d can sometimes end in disappointment. The branch\u2019s hardness, species, fiber structure, and the force you can apply all change the outcome.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A practical approach helps here: don\u2019t treat cutting diameter as a standalone spec; think together with \u201ccutting comfort.\u201d A pruner rated 20 mm but with excellent geometry may tire you less; a model labeled 25 mm with weak blade geometry can become a struggle even at 18\u201319 mm. That\u2019s why, before purchase, holding it in your hand and checking the open-close feel, blade alignment, and the reliability of the lock is a small but effective test.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">And one more thing: as diameter increases, the right tool often shifts to a long-handled lopper. Instead of forcing hand pruners beyond their comfort zone, handing the job to a lopper or a pruning saw tends to give a cleaner cut and safer work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Handle_ergonomics_and_hand_health\"><\/span>Handle ergonomics and hand health<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pruning is largely a repetitive motion. You start with \u201cI\u2019ll just cut a couple of branches,\u201d and then, without noticing, an hour passes. Ergonomics enters exactly here. How the handle sits in your palm, whether opening and closing forces your wrist into an unnatural angle, how stiff or soft the spring feels\u2026 These seem simple, but by the end they can reach the point where your hand starts to shake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A few small observations often help when judging ergonomics:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n  \n  <li>If the handle is too thin, especially for larger hands, gripping force increases and fatigue arrives quickly.<\/li>\n  \n\n  \n  <li>If the handle is too thick, control decreases in smaller hands; you begin to hold the tool by \u201cclamping\u201d it.<\/li>\n  \n\n  \n  <li>A soft, rubber-like coating reduces slipping, but on sweaty hands it can sometimes feel a bit sticky; material quality matters here.<\/li>\n  \n\n  \n  <li>If the lock can be opened and closed with one hand, your workflow doesn\u2019t break. And when the workflow doesn\u2019t break, accidents caused by \u201crushing\u201d tend to decrease.<\/li>\n  \n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For people with sensitivities such as tendinitis, wrist pain, or carpal tunnel symptoms, pruners with a ratchet (step-assisted) mechanism may be helpful. Not a miracle, but because the force is delivered in stages, it can feel relieving for some users.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Blade_steel_and_coating_differences\"><\/span>Blade steel and coating differences<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The heart of a pruner is the blade, but the blade has its own character too. In general, steel with better heat treatment keeps its edge longer; however, not every \u201chard steel\u201d is ideal for garden work. A very hard but brittle blade can develop micro-cracks with misuse (hitting stone, wire, very hard deadwood). Tougher steels can lose sharpness a bit faster, yet they are more forgiving in the field. This balance depends on the manufacturer and overall quality; so judging only from \u201csteel type\u201d is not fully reliable, but it still gives a rough orientation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As for coatings, non-stick (Teflon-like) coatings reduce sticking on resinous branches. When pruning roses or certain shrubs, that sticking can be genuinely annoying; a coating improves comfort. But coatings scratch when maintenance is neglected; once scratched, you may start feeling a repeated \u201csnag\u201d at the same point. So a coating is not quality by itself; it gains meaning together with a consistent maintenance habit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Availability of replacement blades is another small but critical topic. A pruner with a good body can be used for years if you can renew the blade. Some brands make this easy; others follow a \u201cif it\u2019s worn, buy a new one\u201d logic. If we are going to talk about sustainability in gardening, spare parts are not a minor detail at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"When_does_a_pruning_saw_take_over\"><\/span>When does a pruning saw take over?<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are branches that look \u201ccuttable\u201d with pruners, but in truth they push the tool beyond its proper limits. That\u2019s where a pruning saw comes in. Especially in old fruit trees, thicker limbs and woody shrub stems carry a real risk of crushing if you force them with hand pruners. A saw, with the right tooth geometry, gives a more controlled cut and separates fibers more cleanly without compressing the wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Correct saw technique matters too: to prevent the limb from tearing downward under its own weight, making a small safety undercut first is a classic, almost life-saving technique. Otherwise, the branch can snap and rip the bark downward; the main wound enlarges and healing becomes harder. These technical details connect tool choice directly to the \u201cplant health\u201d dimension.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Sharpening_and_maintenance\"><\/span>Sharpening and maintenance<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"867\" src=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-193a62.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-71389\" title=\"\"><figcaption><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Cleaning\"><\/span>Cleaning<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A pruner\u2019s performance is often measured not by \u201cday-one sharpness,\u201d but by \u201cis it still doing the job by the end of month four?\u201d Resin, sap, and soil leave a film on the blade. This film makes cutting harder and increases rust risk. Wiping it with a simple cloth after pruning already makes a difference; on resinous branches, if needed, light cleaning can be done with a mild agent (in a way that doesn\u2019t harm the tool\u2019s material).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Another point: if you cut branches suspected to be diseased, blade disinfection becomes important. It\u2019s best to proceed without overdoing it but without neglecting it either. Maybe not for every single cut, but in situations with a real transmission risk, cleaning and disinfection support the overall health of the garden.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Lubrication\"><\/span>Lubrication<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A rust-preventive oil is especially useful for end-of-season storage. A small drop at the pivot point softens the open-close feel and reduces corrosion. But too much oil attracts dust; so \u201clittle but regular\u201d is usually the better approach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sharpening with a whetstone is a delicate task: if you keep the angle close to the factory bevel, performance improves; random angles and over-sharpening can thin the blade and weaken it. So if you struggle, using a professional sharpening service or following the manufacturer\u2019s recommended method is often healthier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Safe_pruning_gloves_goggles_ladder\"><\/span>Safe pruning: gloves, goggles, ladder<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Most pruning accidents come from that small rush of \u201cjust one more branch.\u201d Gloves are essential, especially with roses and thorny shrubs; but you also want to make sure the gloves are not so bulky that they ruin your grip. Goggles are a simple, effective protection against unexpected snap-backs, especially when cutting dry wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The ladder topic almost deserves its own chapter: pruning alone, on a slippery surface, near the top rungs is a risky combination. If possible, stabilize the ladder, have someone support you, choose proper footwear and a firm base. And if pruning is near power lines, this moves beyond the \u201chobby\u201d zone into a serious risk field; professional support is the better decision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_scenarios_a_small_set_idea_for_roses_hedges_and_fruit_trees\"><\/span>3 scenarios: a small set idea for roses, hedges, and fruit trees<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this section I won\u2019t claim \u201cI recommend one single pruner\u201d because that\u2019s rarely realistic. What tends to work better is a small set logic for three common pruning scenarios. Honestly, this is also what makes the most sense in garden retailers: the user understands what they are buying and why.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">1) Rose pruning (delicate cut and clean wound)<br>With roses, the aim is usually a clean cut, the right angle, and removing shoots without crushing. A good bypass pruner stands out here. Adding a small sharpening stone and a basic maintenance product for resin cleaning is a sensible combination. In some cases, a wound sealant (especially on thicker cut surfaces or in sensitive shrub or tree species) can be kept as an option; it is not mandatory for every cut, but in certain gardens it reassures the user, particularly when there is a risk of bark tearing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">2) Hedge work (repetition, speed, comfort)<br>Hedge pruning is mostly about rhythm: repeating the same motion again and again. That\u2019s where hand health becomes central. If the hedge is wide, hedge shears are another subject, but for occasional woody stems inside the hedge, a long-handled lopper is very practical. Gloves are not only protection here; they also help with grip. A rust-preventive oil extends the life of frequently used tools. In this scenario, comfort details (easy lock, non-slip handle) sometimes make more difference than sharpness\u2014strangely, but true.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">3) Fruit trees (thicker wood, controlled cut, not enlarging the wound)<br>In fruit trees, as wood ages, the need for a saw increases. For thin shoots, bypass pruners can be enough; but on thicker limbs, a pruning saw takes over. A long-handled lopper can reduce ladder use on medium-thickness branches, improving both safety and comfort. Some producers recommend wound sealant particularly for large cut surfaces; climate, disease pressure, and species sensitivity become decisive here. And one more thing: in large limb removal, cutting in a controlled manner rather than \u201csnapping it off\u201d protects the bark. This is as much technique and habit as it is tool choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1300\" height=\"867\" src=\"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/pruning-shears-buying-guide-e50423.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-71395\" title=\"\"><figcaption><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pruning is not simply \u201ccutting\u201d; while shaping a plant, you are also managing a wound. The wrong pruner crushes the branch; the right one tends&#46;&#46;&#46;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919,"featured_media":71392,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_wp_rev_ctl_limit":""},"categories":[4944],"tags":[],"dosya":[],"class_list":["post-71790","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-garden-care"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/71790","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/919"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=71790"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/71790\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/71392"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=71790"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=71790"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=71790"},{"taxonomy":"dosya","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.peyzax.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/dosya?post=71790"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}